EARLY TRADE
Traders had relied on the Salt Road since as early as the late Jomon Era (2,000 BC to 300 BC), using the route to transport jade and obsidian from Itoigawa into the Hakuba Valley. Both were believed to have special powers: jade was used for jewelry, obsidian for weapons.
A SPIRITUAL PILGRIMAGE
The Salt Road had also been a well-trodden pilgrimage route for millennia. Merchants and travellers alike trekked to the Suwa Taisha Shrine to seek divine protection, a great harvest, and prosperous trade.
A LAND AT WAR
During the Sengoku Period (1467-1615), much of Japan was at war, including the people who controlled what is now the Hakuba Valley. Two competing warlords in the region, Takeda Shingen and Uesugi Kenshin, both used the Salt Road as a key strategic corridor for troops and supplies.
UESUGI’S RIGHTEOUS SALT
The phrase “send salt to the enemy” refers to an act of goodwill between enemies and is said to have originated from Uesugi. He reportedly allowed salt to pass through his territory via the Salt Road, despite being at war with his rival, Takeda. Uesugi believed that ordinary people should not suffer because of the conflict between warlords. This gesture became known as “Uesugi’s righteous salt” and is remembered as a rare act of mercy during a time of war.
TRANSPORTING SALT
With peace restored in Japan in 1603, the road came to be used primarily for what would later give it its name: the transport of salt.
Frequent flooding made roads along the river unreliable, so traders used the mountain path through the Hakuba Valley for a drier passage. To navigate the steep mountain trails of the Salt Road, the salt trade relied on bokka—local foot porters who carried loads of up to 80 kilograms using wooden racks with shoulder straps. Each bokka was responsible for one leg of the journey, and passed the salt like a baton to the next porter along the route.
Ushikata—handlers of pack oxen—played a crucial role in transporting goods along the Salt Road as well. Oxen could carry twice the load of a single bokka, making them invaluable for hauling salt and other heavy goods through the rugged terrain. Once the salt passed through Otari, Hakuba, and into present-day Omachi, the road flattened. Then horse carriages could be used to carry the salt the final stretch to Matsumoto.
WALKING THE SALT ROAD TODAY
In the Otari section of the Hakuba Valley, there are eight hikes on beautifully preserved Salt Road trails.
CHIKUNI COURSE
The Chikuni Course, spans seven kilometers from Matsuzawa-guchi at Tsugaike Kogen to Otari Village Folk Museum, and takes three to four hours to complete. It is the most well-maintained and popular route along the Salt Road. The trail includes historical sites such as the Chikuni Barrier Station ruins, Ushikata-yado, and the Hundred-Statue Kannon, offering a glimpse into the area’s rich history. Visitors should keep an eye out for these sites along the route:
CHIKUNI BARRIER STATION RUINS
Explore the remains of a historical checkpoint along the Salt Road. This checkpoint was active during the Edo period for controlling the movement of people and goods (especially salt) between regions.
USHIKATA-YADO
This refers to a historical inn or resting place where ushikata, or oxen drivers, would stay during their long freight journeys on the Salt Road.
HUNDRED-STATUE KANNON
A site featuring a collection of statues of Kannon, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. These statues are said to provide spiritual guidance for travelers along the Salt Road.
SPRING & AUTUMN TRAIL BLAZING The Chikuni Crossing Trail is accessible year-round, but the best times to visit are in spring and autumn. In spring, cherry blossoms and fresh greenery make the journey especially beautiful, while autumn offers a spectacular display of red and gold foliage against the backdrop of the Northern Alps.
THE SALT ROAD FESTIVAL In May 2025, the 46th Annual Salt Road Festival was held in Otari, with similar festivals happening in both Hakuba and Omachi. Thousands of participants dressed in traditional bokka attire and walked a 9-kilometer stretch of the historic route, recreating the journey of traders who once traversed this mountain pass. This vibrant event offered a unique chance to step back in time and experience the cultural heritage of the Salt Road firsthand.
Whether you are an experienced trekker or a casual walker, this historical and religious route offers a unique way to experience the Hakuba Valley beyond its famous ski slopes.
