Thanks to an abundance of pristine mountain water, a cool climate, and well-drained soil, Nagano Prefecture produces some of the finest soba in Japan.
We sat down with Miki Nonoyama, a long-time Hakuba resident and soba enthusiast, to learn more about this beloved buckwheat noodle, its history, and what makes Nagano soba so special.
“I’ve lived in Hakuba for about 40 years now,” Nonoyama-san says with a smile. By day, she runs a local guesthouse, but her true passion lies in soba making. What began as a casual interest turned into a lifelong pursuit.
While she humbly insists she is still learning, Nonoyama- san is certified at level five by the All Japan Soba Administration, a significant milestone in the world of soba. Passing the exam means more than just mas tering technique; it involves written tests, community contribution essays, and even a public speech. “You need to make soba from 100% buckwheat flour, no binder, and you have 40 minutes. It’s intense!”
According to Nonoyama-san, the secret to great soba lies in the freshness. “Freshly milled, freshly made, and freshly boiled—that’s the perfect trio,” she says. Oxidation can turn the flour dark and bitter, especially if it has been shipped from far away. That’s why sourcing local flour is essential. Nagano’s climate, clean water, and wide temperature range between day and night also play a part. “It creates soba that’s sweet and aromatic,” she explains. In Hakuba, many farmers grow and sell soba locally. Some even preserve soba in the snow to enhance its flavor.
One thing that sets Nonoyama-san apart is how she tailors each batch of soba to the occasion. “If someone wants to make soba for the first time, I’d use finely milled flour. But if it’s an advanced group, we might go coarser.” She even made sakura-colored soba in spring, infused with cherry blossoms. She is modest about being called a soba master, though. “Honestly, I don’t know what that even means,” she laughs. “I just want people to enjoy eating it and think, ‘I want to eat this again.’ That’s enough for me.”
Nonoyama-san is one of the few people in the region who offers soba workshops, where guests can try their hand at making noodles from scratch. “People find me through Instagram or word of mouth. They come all the way to Hakuba just to learn.” For first-timers, she recommends starting with cold zaru soba. “Try it plain first, then dip it in the sauce, and finally add condiments. Don’t forget to drink the soba broth at the end—it’s part of the experience.”
If you are not up for making soba yourself, do not worry. Hakuba has a wide range of soba restaurants, each with its own flavor and philosophy. “Go on a soba tour,” Nonoyama-san suggests. “Taste as many as you can.”
So the next time you are in the Hakuba Valley, whether it is for the snow or the summer trails, make room for a serving of hand-crafted soba. You might just find that it’s more than a meal—it’s a story, a tradition, and a warm invitation into local life.
